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Focus Tips: How to Take Sharp Family and Group Portraits

How do you get such sharp family and group portraits? It’s one of the most common questions we get from photographers — because it’s one of the most normal technical challenges new photographers have. A few specific focus tips can make all the difference in walking onto a session with confidence. We remember exactly what it felt like to be nervous at a session, acting calm and positive in front of the client (Everything looks great, guys! Perfect!) while inside we were secretly scared to death, because someone had finally PAID US to take their pictures… and we were realizing the group images weren’t even IN FOCUS. In those moments, the doubts that had lingered in the back of our mind for months got louder. We felt the opposite of professional.

Have you been there? We want to change that for you today!

Or, maybe you’re in a different boat. Maybe your images look sharp on the back of your screen, but when you get home they’re a little soft. That was SO HARD for perfectionists like us! It still is today. We’d be lying if we told you that every image we take is tack sharp. It can’t be. That’s not a realistic expectation for anyone. Especially on wedding days when we’re shooting wide open, at lower apertures like f/1.2 – f/2.0,  with a bride and groom who are moving — and that’s okay! Because we have a lot more time with the couple than we do for family photos, for example, where we only get the fire the shutter a few times. So if a few shots of the couple are soft (here and there) in order to get some perfectly crisp ones with the creamy background that f/1.2 – f/2.0 gives us, then it’s worth it. Every. Single. Time.

Family and group portraits? That’s a different story. We only get one crack at those, and they have a completely different purpose. Couple’s portraits are more artistic. Family and group portraits are a little more utilitarian. There’s not a huge creative license — because there’s rarely time for it. The goal of family portraits is to get every member of the group in sharp focus, so when the family prints the photos for their wall or an album, they look beautiful and professional.

Lastly, the larger the group is, the more combinations they want and the less time there is to work with (which is basically all wedding days!), the more pressure and room for error there is — which makes it really important for the technical part to be second nature to the photographer, so the photographer can focus (pun intended) on giving the clients a fantastic experience. We can help with that!

Here are our top focus tips for getting sharp family and group portraits on a wedding day or during a large group family session.

Focus Tips How To Take Sharp Group Portraits

1. One Shooter, One Organizer
We always divide and conquer family and group portraits to expedite the process. Amy stays near the group, reads off combinations, poses and positions each person (click here to watch a free posing class with us!) and looks for anything that’s out of order. This gives Jordan the chance to focus on his composition, settings and getting the pictures in focus. Splitting up the roles has really helped us execute this well, because trying to do both is a lot for one person — especially if it’s a large group or challenging family — and can lead to mistakes with the camera. If you’re shooting a wedding solo, we recommend asking the wedding planner or the least intoxicated, most responsible-looking family member to assist with the shot list.

If you’re shooting a family session alone and don’t have the luxury of a second shooter/assistant,  we’d recommend putting your camera down while you instruct and organize the group, step back, take a breath, look at the entire group before you bring the camera up to see if you need to make corrections and then bring the camera to your face to get the shot.

2. Line Up Their Feet
Groups have a tendency to curl in on the ends and make a U-shape without even realizing it! We all do it — even photographers! — but it’s a problem when trying to get everyone in focus because as the people on the ends curl up, they’re unintentionally stepping out of the focal plane, so when you focus on the person in the middle (like you always should), the people on the ends will be out of focus. The fastest, easiest way to correct this is with a preset in Photoshop that sharpens everyone that’s our of focus. JUST KIDDING. Like we teach in our Shooting & Editing Course, the fastest, easiest way to correct problems is IN-CAMERA. In this case, Amy uses the simple direction,”Let’s line up your toes,” to help them get straightened out and back on the same focal plane.

Focus Tips for Sharp Group Portraits for Photographers

3.Try to Avoid Multiple Rows
If you’re able to get everyone lined up on the same focal plane, that’s best. If you have to do two lines, one of our best focus tips is to make sure and remind the people in the back row to get uncomfortably close to the people in front of them. The farther apart the subjects are (from front to back), the more difficult it will be to get everyone in focus. The closer they are together, the easier it will be.

4. Focus on the People in the Front
If you have a two rows of people standing, make sure to focus on the person who’s front and center. Aperture, like a lot of things in photography, works in a system of thirds. So, if your aperture is f/4, then within that focal plane, wherever you focus, 1/3 of that will go forward and 2/3 will go backward. In other words, when you focus on someone in the front, you just need them to be in focus, and nothing in front of them, but you do need the people behind them to be in focus, so you’ll have a better chance of doing that if you give them the extra 2/3 of that aperture’s focal depth. In this photo below, we focused on the bridesmaid sitting in front, and you’ll notice the bride in the second row is completely in focus, too.

Focus Tips for Sharp Group Portraits for Photographers

5. Pick the Right Aperture
One of the most important focus tips when shooting groups of people is to make sure you choose the right aperture. If we’re shooting a bride and groom and their parents, or a smaller grouping of bridesmaids or groomsmen (of about 4-6 people), and they’re all on the same focal plane, we can shoot at f/2.8, get them all in focus and (depending on the lens we’re using, our distance to them and their distance to the background) maybe some blur or bokeh, too. If we’re shooting a larger bridal party grouping (of about 8-10 people), and they’re all on the same focal plane, then we’ll bump our aperture up a full stop to f/4.0. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can always go to f/5.6, but we like f/4.0. We’ll use f/4.0 if there’s a second row added to a small grouping, as long as everyone is very close together, like we explained earlier.

If there’s a third row, we’ll go to at least f/5.6 and maybe even f/8.0, but we rarely encounter that because most of our clients usually just want immediate family in the photos: parents, siblings, and grandparents. As a rule of thumb, though, we tend to hang out at f/4.0 for most of family portrait time and keep the groupings smaller, because even though we give up some of the bokeh in the background compared to f/2.8, we’ll trade that for guaranteed in-focus family shots any day of the week. Your client probably won’t appreciate the difference between f/2.8 and f/4.0, but they will notice if they’re blurry!

Pro Tip: A lens’s sharpest aperture isn’t actually its highest number (like f/22). For most lenses, it’s around f/8 – f/11. So if you’re really worried about getting everyone in a large, multi-layered, generational group shot sharp and in focus, something in that range will definitely do the trick!

Focus Tips for Sharp Group Portraits for Photographers

6. Speed Up Your Shutter 
As a rule of thumb, especially for new photographers, one of the most imperative focus tips is that your shutter speed should be double your focal length — at least. We shoot a lot of our family portraits with a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 at 70mm with a shutter speed somewhere between 1/200 and 1/400. Can that lens handle a slower shutter? Definitely! At this stage in our career, if we’re not moving and our subjects aren’t moving, can our hands handle a slower shutter and avoid camera shake? Probably! We shoot it lower than that all the time, but not when so much is on the line. It’s just not worth it. Bump up your ISO one full stop to keep your shutter faster. Outside on a bright day (even if you’re in the shade), you’ll never notice the grain from a higher ISO — and neither will anyone else — but you will notice if someone’s face isn’t in focus… and so will everyone else.

Focus Tips for Sharp Group Portraits for Photographers

7. Watch Out for Lens Flare 
If the sun is hitting your lens directly and you see lens flare (like a haze over the entire image), try to make an adjustment before you start family portraits. Lens flare can cause the camera to have trouble focusing. You might not notice it right away, or until you get home, but if lens flare is there, it’ll be a problem. We recommend lens hoods in situations like that. Sometimes we’re limited to where we can shoot family portraits, so if the only spot available is somewhere that has light hitting the lens, a good lens hood will minimize or eliminate that. If you can’t get rid of all of it, you can always have a second shooter or assistant hold something to shade your lens.

8. Check Your LCD Screen
Every time we take a set of group portraits, we double check the LCD screen before we move on to the next combination. We have our cameras set to zoom in tight with one click so we can see our client’s eyes quickly. Even on a tight timeline, it only takes a few seconds to make sure everyone’s eyes are open and in focus; if they’re not, it only takes a few more clicks of the shutter to correct it. An easy correction to make on the spot, but a huge headache to try to correct later digitally!

Troubleshooting Tips
We hope that these focus tips help you get your large group and family photos in sharp focus every time! If you try all of these tips and you’re still having trouble with sharp focus, it might be time to send your lens or camera in for an inspection at a local camera shop. Canon and Nikon also have professional service programs where you can send your gear for routine maintenance and, when needed, repair. Here’s a link to a blog post we wrote about our experience with Canon Professional Services.

If you’ve eliminated all user error and had your gear inspected by a professional, and you’re still struggling with focus, it might be time to upgrade your camera and lens to newer models. If you need help with that, click here to see a full list of all the gear that’s in our bag. Hint: If we had to shoot a wedding with just one camera and one lens, we’d choose the Canon 5D Mark III and the Canon 50mm 1.2.

Focus Tips How To Take Sharp Group Portraits





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  1. Shani

    July 2nd, 2014 at 8:40 pm

    Thanks! These are so simple and make sense and yet I have never thought or read them this way – Thanks for sharing!

  2. Charlotte

    July 2nd, 2014 at 8:41 pm

    Brilliant! Thank you!

  3. Jeanine Churchwell

    July 2nd, 2014 at 9:40 pm

    Thank you for posting. Great tips to remember!

  4. Lauren

    July 2nd, 2014 at 11:05 pm

    Awesome! Any advice for shutter speed with flash on the 70-200 for indoor family formal shots? How do you determine that?

  5. Joe

    June 1st, 2015 at 7:50 am

    Manual mode, 250 shutter speed, raw image, iso 100, WB flash, try that most of the time works good

  6. Brianne Adams

    July 3rd, 2014 at 10:34 am

    Great post! Thanks for all the wonderful tips!

  7. Silvana Cordeiro Braggio

    October 5th, 2014 at 8:58 pm

    Thank you very much! Great tips!!!!

  8. Tracy Brauer

    July 16th, 2015 at 11:55 am

    Can I still get a sharp shot using the basic kit lens that came with my Nikon? Last year I had to shoot 20+ people at my grandpa’s birthday party. 5 x 7 was ok, but larger prints started to look digitized. Now, it’s my grandma’s big 80th party & I have to do it again. I would’ve preferred hiring a professional, but it’s too late for that. Is there any hope of creating a clearer shot?? Thanks! I’m enjoying your tips!!

  9. Amy & Jordan

    July 17th, 2015 at 10:50 am

    Hi Tracy! Great question!

    We’d focus on a few things.

    1. Make sure that the 20 people are as close together as possible if they’re in rows. I’d try two rows of 10 or three rows of 7 or so.

    2. Then, be sure to have an aperture of at least 4.0 for the two rows (if not higher) and 8.0 if you go to three rows.

    3. Use the center focal point on your camera and focus on the person in the front center row (for two rows) or the middle row (if you’ve got three rows).

    Hope that helps and good luck, friend!!!

  10. Design Theory

    October 6th, 2015 at 9:43 am

    Hmm your tip about doubling your shutter speed for a 200mm on a 70-200mm lens was interesting. I have heard of this tactic about a week ago but never paid attention honestly if I have done this before inadvertently. Bumping up the ISO I understand would be necessary. The length of 200mm on a group shot of more than 7 people is daunting to me, but seeing what you did I am eager to try it. Thanks for your post!

  11. Amy & Jordan

    October 6th, 2015 at 11:51 pm

    Hi, Design Theory! So glad it helped! We shoot most of our group portraits on our 70-200mm at 70mm and try to keep the focal length above 200 for sure and a lot of times between 200-400. We have no problem pushing ISO 800 for two-row group shots with an aperture of 5.6 since the grain at 800 on modern DSLR’s is minimal, but if we have to choose between ISO 1600 and dropping our shutter speed closer to 1/100 or something like that, we’ll try that first and hold REALLY still 😉

  12. Evan + Lee

    October 7th, 2015 at 11:51 am

    Hi, Amy & Jordan! I have a question. Can you explain this a bit more for me: “We shoot most of our group portraits on our 70-200mm at 70mm and try to keep the focal length above 200 for sure and a lot of times between 200-400.”

    Do you shoot families/bridal party zoomed in to 70mm or 200mm?


  13. Amy & Jordan

    October 7th, 2015 at 1:55 pm

    Hi, Guys! Great question! The answer is both actually! At some venues in town, we have VERY limited options for clean backgrounds combined with open shade for family portraits. At one venue in particular, the ONLY spot has distracting elements all around the periphery of the backdrop we want. So, in that case, Jordan backs WAY up and zooms all the way to 200mm to pull that tiny background forward and make it seem bigger than it really is. Thus, cutting out the distracting elements on the sides. Other times at other venues, depending on the light, if he backs up TOO far, there’s bad lens flare, so sometimes 70mm works better so he can be closer to the family and let the sun be blocked from hitting his lens directly because of a building or something. Phew! That was a lot of typing! Long story short, though, we shoot at 70-200 and everything in-between (and sometimes use our 50mm or wider if we HAVE to) but our preferred is our 70-200mm because it’s Jordan favorite lens 🙂 Hope that helps!

  14. Amy & Jordan

    October 7th, 2015 at 2:04 pm

    Hi again, guys! We just updated Step 6 to address the great question you asked! Thanks so much for bringing that to our attention! Hopefully the update above clarifies everything!

  15. Design Theory

    October 7th, 2015 at 1:42 pm

    I honestly didn’t expect you guys to respond, how cool is that! Great feedback, I am going to practice those settings hopefully this weekend. Thank you again!

  16. Amy & Jordan

    October 7th, 2015 at 1:56 pm

    Awesome! Good luck, friend!

  17. Rosalinda

    December 14th, 2015 at 10:13 am

    You guys are amazing. Thank you so much for the tips. I’ve already added you to my favorites list! And look forward to learning more from you both as I begin my venture as a new photographer.

  18. Amy & Jordan

    December 14th, 2015 at 12:51 pm

    Hi, Rosalinda! Welcome aboard, friend! We’re so, so glad to have you. Thanks for being part of this online journey with us. We’re cheering for you!

  19. Mica Sato

    February 26th, 2016 at 7:37 am

    Hi guys!

    I don’t know how I came about this site but it has certainly helped me a lot for a wedding shoot tomorrow! I don’t normally like shooting weddings but out of a friends request I had to give in 🙂

    I would like to ask you, I love shooting with my 50mm lens at 1.2, is it possible to shoot with this lens for the entire event? Not keen on switching lenses if possible? Obviously after reading your blog I’d probably play a lot on the apertures during group shots. What do you think? Switch or can I stick with this lens? Thanks so much!

  20. Amy & Jordan

    February 26th, 2016 at 12:03 pm

    Hi, Mica! We’re so glad it helped! If you send your question over to we can get something over to you!

  21. MeLissa Bull

    August 8th, 2016 at 11:09 pm

    Thank you.

  22. Nia

    August 15th, 2016 at 9:20 pm

    just finished your webinar, watched life hacks and downloaded quick start guide and I’m not even getting an income from photography! One thing I noticed is that your images are natural light ( I think on the webinar someone asks if you use flash photography) – do you only do daytime/outdoor weddings? If so how do you manage the harsh light during ceremony where you don’t get to choose the location? (sorry I haven’t had time to go through all your images). So many questions!!

  23. Amy & Jordan

    August 23rd, 2016 at 2:24 pm

    Hi Nia! Thank you so much for watching!

    If you search “light” on our blog, you should find other blogs when light isn’t ideal!

  24. Stephanie Cass

    September 16th, 2016 at 7:41 am

    Hi Amy & Jordan, you guys are great btw, I have a question. My camera came with a kit lens, 18mm and I’m often not happy with the DOF I get in portraits, so I switched to using my 55-300mm lens (came with the camera) But I find that really cuts down my frame, how far back should I be standing from the couple or group for my speedlite to still properly illuminate them and get that nice tack focus? Thanks so much for any help you can offer!

  25. sarah

    October 6th, 2016 at 9:19 am

    Oh my gosh, you guys are amazing! What a great post…I actually feel like I am starting to understand!

  26. Cindy

    October 10th, 2016 at 10:22 am

    Thank you for sharing these helpful tips.

  27. subira

    October 10th, 2016 at 11:54 pm

    Thank you… just started “freezing moments” and this will help alot..

  28. Janie

    October 17th, 2016 at 4:35 am

    I have struggled with this for so long. Amy and Jordan, this is awesome!! Thank you so much! I can’t wait to try all your tips out.

  29. Janie

    October 17th, 2016 at 4:58 am

    I have struggled with this for so long. Thank you so much for explaining in a way that no one else has. This is awesome, can’t wait to try out these tips!!

  30. Kathy

    October 19th, 2016 at 7:19 am

    Hello Amy and Jordan! I love your work…I myself am a retired elementary school teacher…who married her high school sweetheart as well! My question is what metering do you use? Partial, spot or centered weighted? For your photos? Or do you use a variety for different shoots? Thank you!

  31. Dee

    November 2nd, 2016 at 10:29 am

    Thank you so much for sharing!

  32. Amy & Jordan

    January 3rd, 2017 at 9:22 am

    You’re so welcome, Dee!

  33. Beverly Maunus

    November 4th, 2016 at 8:00 am

    Hello- I am shooting a group of 16 this Sunday. Adults and kids. I have a Nikon 700 and usually use an 85mm 1.4 lens. I also have a 70-200 lens and a 50mm. Which one would you use. How can I get them all in focus? There is also going to be great foliage and color in the background. I am shooting mid day to accommodate

  34. Amy & Jordan

    January 3rd, 2017 at 9:43 am

    Hi Beverly! If you shoot us an email at we can make sure to get your question answered!!

  35. Beverly Maunus

    November 4th, 2016 at 8:02 am

    Hello- I am shooting a group of 16 this Sunday. Adults and kids. I have a Nikon 700 and usually use an 85mm 1.4 lens. I also have a 70-200 lens and a 50mm. Which one would you use. How can I get them all in focus? There is also going to be great foliage and color in the background. I am shooting mid day.

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  37. Meylyng

    November 26th, 2016 at 6:19 am

    Hi A&J,

    Thank you for sharing all this information with us. Love your work. So excited to be trying out your tips toning at a Birthday Party.
    Is there any other lens recommended to take group photos that is not the 70-200mm which i don’t owe yet… (on my wishlist)? Owning a 85mm f/1.4 and a 11-16mm f/2.8, kit lenses, ff body and c-body, and a 17-40mm f/4…….

  38. Amy & Jordan

    January 3rd, 2017 at 9:53 am

    Hi Meylyng!! Thank you!! If you send us an email at info@amyandjordan with your questions we can definitely get it answered for you!

  39. Madeline

    December 6th, 2016 at 7:56 am

    Good day!
    I have a Canon EOS 70D dlsr and need to shoot group photos ranging from 3 ppl to about 12. The photos are indoors with enough light to not have to use flash. I have selected Aperture priority, F.Stop 7.1 and ISO to Auto. I also chose burst shots because people tend to move. Are these good settings? Thank you!

  40. Amy & Jordan

    January 3rd, 2017 at 9:59 am

    Hi Madeline!! Thanks so much for your questions! If you send us an email at we can get them answered for you as soon as possible! 🙂

  41. Holly Mellown

    January 4th, 2017 at 9:52 am

    I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to find you! Your tips are amazing and just what I needed to help my photography get to the next level! Thanks a million times over for being accessible and willing to lend a helping hand!

  42. Amy & Jordan

    January 11th, 2017 at 11:25 am

    Aw! Thanks so much, Holly!!

  43. Dany

    March 4th, 2017 at 5:30 am

    Thanks! It will help me for the aperture.

  44. Amy & Jordan

    March 8th, 2017 at 1:29 pm

    Absolutely, Dany!! We’re cheering for you! 🙂

  45. Miranda

    March 27th, 2017 at 11:56 am

    Hi was wondering on what you use in shooting group photos with a NikonD5000 at 18-55mm lens? im still learning on it, some shots i had great focus and some not, it gets so frustrating when it comes to lighting if your in a home with low light or just the position im standing because the light changes every time you move to stand, or just outside in general, shots can be to dark or to light. much needed of advice and assistance on this ! thanks !

  46. Tracee Pickle

    June 5th, 2017 at 8:26 pm

    It is very kind of you to spend time detailing these tips for us! This was most helpful. Your photography is beautiful!!

  47. Amy & Jordan

    June 6th, 2017 at 12:34 pm

    Hi, Tracee! We’re so glad you found these tips helpful! Thanks so much! Hugs!! 🙂

  48. Javier Larios

    June 10th, 2017 at 6:09 am

    Enjoyed your tips. Thank you!

  49. Amy & Jordan

    June 12th, 2017 at 3:14 pm

    We’re so happy to hear these tips were helpful!! Thanks so much, Javier! 🙂

  50. Kendra

    June 17th, 2017 at 8:25 am

    Thank you for the tips! I am shooting my first wedding and have been reading your pages and practicing. I am loving it! Thanks Amy and Jordan! Now if I can just remember everything….

  51. Amy & Jordan

    June 20th, 2017 at 1:56 pm

    Hi, Kendra! Awe! We’re so glad our blogs have been helpful to you! Good luck!! <3

  52. Shelley

    July 18th, 2017 at 8:43 pm

    Do you ever change up the focus points? My camera allows me to change from a wide focus, to 39, 21 and 9 focus points. I feel like I have more control when I go down to 39 focal points, but also worry about losing the sharp focus on anyone outside of the main point of focus. Suggestions?

  53. Amy & Jordan

    July 24th, 2017 at 9:52 am

    Hi Shelley! From our personal experience, it all depends on the quality of the camera’s focusing system. When we used to shoot with the 5D Mark II, we had MUCH better luck using the center focal point and recomposing. With the 5D Mark III, the focusing system got a major upgrade, so we started toggling way more and still getting sharp focus. So for some, the center focal point makes sense; for others, using all the different focal points makes sense. It really just depends on the camera 🙂 Hope that helps!

  54. Jessi

    August 12th, 2017 at 6:36 am

    This article was very helpful for a hobbiest like me 🙂

    Thank you so much for this post!

  55. Amy & Jordan

    August 15th, 2017 at 8:56 am

    You’re so welcome, Jessi! We’re so glad this was helpful!

  56. Sonia Saund

    August 24th, 2017 at 9:21 am

    Thanks for the tips! They were all very insightful 🙂 Love the website too–very clean and simple!

  57. Amy & Jordan

    August 24th, 2017 at 10:11 am

    You’re so welcome, Sonia! We’re so glad this was helpful! 🙂

  58. Denise Terrazas

    October 2nd, 2017 at 6:58 am

    Im looking to add a wider lens. What would you recommend? So far, I have a 50, 85 and 70-200. I am leaning towards the 16-35 but see many people love the 24-70. Also, what is a good flash to purchase? Im using the newest Canon 5D

  59. Amy & Jordan

    October 3rd, 2017 at 9:02 am

    Hi Denise! We own the 24-70 and love it for getting ready rooms and dancing shots at receptions. We don’t have any experience with the 16-35, but for our purposes, 16 is much wider than we ever need to go and 35 doesn’t allow us to zoom in quite enough; if, for example, we’re in a getting ready room and want to grab a wide shot of all the girls getting ready and then zoom in on Mom lacing her daughter’s dress, all without moving our feet, which sometimes we can’t since getting ready rooms are tight and have lots of obstacles. Hope that helps!

  60. Bailey

    November 9th, 2017 at 11:38 am

    Great article and so helpful!

    For couples and families of 4, what is your metering mode? Do you shoot with the same metering mode all the time or does it depend on the amount of people or lighting?


  61. Amy & Jordan

    November 13th, 2017 at 10:19 am

    Hi, Bailey! Great question! We use an ExpoDisc for exposure and white balance with evaluative metering (Canon) or matrix metering (Nikon). Hope that helps!

  62. Vanesa Precilla

    December 8th, 2017 at 6:25 am

    Thank you for posting this kind of article. I love the way you present your point. Simple but amazing!

  63. Amy & Jordan

    December 8th, 2017 at 1:59 pm

    Hi, Vanesa! You’re so welcome!! We’re so glad this was helpful! 🙂

  64. Keith

    December 14th, 2017 at 10:50 am

    Great, detailed, information! Thanks!

  65. Amy & Jordan

    December 14th, 2017 at 1:48 pm

    You’re so welcome, Keith! We’re so glad this was helpful!

  66. Cris Bohannon

    January 20th, 2018 at 5:11 pm

    Wow, this has so much great information. Thank you for sharing. I learned a LOT

  67. Amy & Jordan

    January 24th, 2018 at 11:23 am

    You’re so welcome, Cris! We’re so glad this was helpful!

  68. Nancy Walcutt

    January 26th, 2018 at 8:07 am

    Thank you so much for all of your tips and tricks. I have spent most of my time shooting wildlife. I was asked to shoot a friend wedding . It was scary as heck. I had no idea how to pose people. I was so out of my element. the pictures came out good, but not glorious.I will not do another without sufficient training. I am sure I will be back in touch.

  69. Amy & Jordan

    January 30th, 2018 at 11:10 am

    Aw! You’re so welcome! We’re so glad this was helpful!

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We help people take great photos and build profitable businesses that change lives. We’re high school sweethearts, former elementary school teachers and professional photographers who believe education is serious business, but learning should be fun.


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